Vernal Verna


Few Goan villages can match the cool of this lovely village
By Rinea Dourado (Goa Today)


 There is much more to Verna than the Electronic City, which as a matter of interest, is today a part of the neighbouring Nagoa village. Both Verna and Nagoa, originally one village, were bifurcated into two independent villages, merely a year ago. Nevertheless, irrespective of its present location the Electronic City still carries the name of Verna and a piece on Verna without mentioning its most famed industrial estate is incomplete. Spanning over 1000 hectares, the Electronic City, houses approximately 230 small and big companies that have generated much employment for people from the village as well as outside.

But, apart from the expansive Electronic City, Verna is basically rural. A fairly big village in Salcete Taluka, Verna is flanked on either side of the National Highway 17, some 10 kms North of Margao. The village is mainly hilly but is endowed with some low lying plains, its geography being typical of the taluka. There is no thick forest here but several stretches of land along the hilly parts are covered by wild growth of teak, cashew and other trees. There is an interesting tale associated with the origin of the name - Verna - which is the Portuguese corruption of Varunapuri, literally meaning city of the Sea God - Varuna means God of the sea and puri means city.

However, other than for the river Sal rising in the north-east between Verna and Raia, there is no sea nearby. Hence the other interpretation of the genesis of the name could be true. A romantic story, it tells of a boy named Vishnu who fell in love with a girl called Aruna. For some reason the lovers were killed by the village folk and their corpses burnt. It is believed that Aruna was later reborn in the form of a flowering plant, and it is from her that the village derived its name - Varunapuri. Aruna means dawn and just as dawn signifies freshness, Verna with its many springs and tanks was known for its cool and refreshing climate. Even the Portuguese had nicknamed the village, Terra de Frescura (Land of Coolness).

Traditionally an agricultural village, Verna measures 1490 hectares in size and has a population of approximately 11,000. Though most of its inhabitants are engaged in the private on public service sector, farming and in particular paddy cultivation continues to be a common activity in the village.

 While pottery is the traditional household industry, other industries like poultry farming, tailoring, rice and flour mills, manufacturing of iron grills, furniture and cement blocks also abound in Verna. There are about half a dozen households involved in the pottery industry. Kitchenwares, vases, flower pots and even lavani (used in distillery) are produced here. The main ingredient, clay, is obtained from the local fields. Earthenware of various sizes and shapes is produced using the chalk (wheel) for rotating the objects and patnem (wooden bat) for shaping them.

A predominantly Catholic village, there is but a small percentage of Hindus and only a handful of Muslims. A sizeable portion of the Christian population comprises the Gauda community.

A small temple or Gumati dedicated to Goddess Mahalasa Narayani (Kalimata) is situated on the Mardol plateau of Verna. Prior to 1560, a large temple dedicated to the deity existed in the same spot. When this temple was destroyed by the Portuguese, the deity was shifted to Mardol in Ponda taluka. There is a legend connected to the establishment of this temple on the Verna plateau. Village shepherd boys would go to the plateau to rear cattle. One afternoon, while the thirsty shepherds were returning home with their cattle, a woman appeared to them and requested them to call the villagers to the plateau. The boys refused on account of the sweltering heat.

So the Goddess (who had taken the form of a woman) is said to have struck her foot on the ground and a spring of fresh, sweet water appeared on the spot. The stunned shepherds rushed to the village to call the people. But, by the time the villagers arrived there, the Goddess had disappeared but the spring continued to flow. Later the villagers built a tank and a temple dedicated to the Goddess on the plateau. Goddess Mahalasa is said to fulfil the wishes of her devotees. She is believed to be the incarnation of Goddess Laxmi, wife of Lord Vishnu and Parvati, wife of Lord Shiva, alike.

Close to the temple site, is located the eight feet long laterite image of the Mother Goddess, The image formerly lay near the famous ancient temple of Mahadev, on the banks of the river Selaulim, in Bhosale Bandh. To salvage it from being submerged on account of the Selaulim dam, the image was relocated at the Verna plateau primarily for three reasons: the plateau had two megalithic sites like that of Curdi (where the image originally lay); before its destruction the biggest temple of Mahalasa existed here and the temple tank is unique, being the largest of its kind in Goa. Mahalasa Devi is a female deity which itself is the evolutionary form of the Mother Goddess. Moreover the ecological atmosphere of the plateau is quite similar to that of Curdi.With the placement of the huge, rare image of the Mother Goddess, the place has attained historical and touristic importance on the map of Goa.

 In 1519, the Portuguese Captain, Rui de Melo and his men entered Salcete and marched towards the temple fort. On reaching it, they erected a shed covered with coconut fronds and set up an altar inside. The first mass that was celebrated in Salcete was held here. A simple white cross has been built at the spot to commemorate the event.

According to some records, the original Mahalsa temple which was built in the form of a fortress was so beautiful that a Jesuit Priest Fr Luis Goes, moved by its grandeur and coolness of the place, wished to conserve it. But, his pleas were rejected by the Captain and the temple was razed to the ground. The remains of the temple and the tank still exist on the plateau.

Descending the winding slope from the plateau to the main road, the majestic view of the surrounding area, lend the place a truly aesthetic touch. At some point from the slope one can see the Konkan Railway Station at Cansaulim, a mere three kms away.

Easy accessibility sets Verna apart from other villages of its type. Since it is located on the main bus route, a frequent bus service is available to the village. Besides the NH17, there are three major distinct roads that pass through the village - Bamborda - Loutolim, Seraulim - Utorda and Povoacao - Cansaulim.

The parish church of Holy Cross, established in 1812 is located in Povoacao ward. It has an impressive structure with its whitewashed extension and huge open yard in front lending it some grandeur. The church square is mainly used as a football ground. Besides Christmas and Easter, the feast of St Michael and Our Lady of Guia are some of the important village feasts. Opposite the church, on the other side of the road lies the office of the Comunidades which has played a significant role in the land administration of the village.

In bygone years, Verna held an exalted status, second only to Margao, in the taluka. In some historical accounts, the village is recorded to have been the capital of Salcete for a short while. Comparatively well settled always, Verna today appears to be well equipped with most modern amenities except for an adequate market. Often the villagers have to visit Margao, the nearest town, for day to day purchases. Yet there is a well equipped post office, a bank, a sub-divisional office of the Electricity Department, and a police station in the village. Besides, the co-operative society which runs a fair-price shop dealing in essential commodities like rice, wheat, sugar and oil, there are a few provision stores in the village. A Government Primary Health Centre (PHC) some General Practitioner Clinics and Dr Roque Fereria's Hospital comprise the health facilities provided in the village. Verna may also find itself on the tourist map should the government's plans for the golf course materialise.

The educational facilities include a government primary school, Marina English High School and Fr Agnel Ashram which was started in June 1979. Spread over 16 acres in Verna, the institute is well known for its technical education. In addition to the Padre Conceisao College of Engineering, the Agnel Polytechnic and the Industrial Training Institute, the Ashram runs the Fr Agnel Multipurpose Higher Secondary School (science and vocational stream), High School and Primary.

The Ashram campus also includes a shelter for destitute children - Konseisanv Balgram - consisting of 18 cottages, each with the care of a 'Mother'. Besides Konseisanv Balgram, there is another home for orphan and destitute girls, run by the sisters of St Joseph of Cluny, in the village.

There are two ponds in the village, one at Mardol and the other at Poriethat. The ponds are used for washing, bathing and irrigation purposes. Like the rest of Salcete, Verna abounds in springs. There are several springs scattered about in the village, some of which are famous for their medicinal properties. Picnickers also make their way to these springs especially during the summer.

 Yet another characteristic that Verna shares with the rest of the taluka is the Indo-Portuguese architecture of its manorial houses. Whether nestled in the interiors of the village amidst clusters of teak or along the main road, the beautifully styled houses, never fail to draw attention. Some of the houses are so close to the highway that compound walls are often brought down by speeding trucks and buses.

Also noteworthy of Verna is its contribution to the religious community. Two Bishops - Julius Alvares and Dom Custodio de Pinho - and the renowned priest, the late Fr Savio da Gama, were natives of the village. The late Bishop Julius Alvares originally belonging to the Roman Catholic Community, which he was forced to leave, by the Portuguese, on account of his association with the freedom movement. He then joined the Syrian Orthodox church where he was later appointed as Bishop.

Today Bishop Alvares is venerated as saint by that community. The other Bishop, late Dom Custodio de Pinho of the Roman Catholic Church was the second Goan to be appointed as Bishop. He succeeded, Dom Matheus de Castro, in the Apostolic Vicariate of Bombay and Grao Mogo, Idalxa and Golconda. Bishop Pinho breathed his last in Goa in the year 1697. Fr Savio, who expired in October '96 has attained saint-like bearing and many people seek his favours.

Well known among the few Hindu families in the village are the Arsekars while Fomento General Manager Gama and Lume Pereira's are two of the prominent Christain families in Verna.

Discovering Verna is an experience of sorts. Initially one may be put-off by the rugged rocky terrain that greets the visitor, but climb to the Mardol plateau top, to be enchanted by the view and pleasant envrions of the place. Except for a few rocky spots, Verna has wide areas covered with a variety of tropical vegetation interspersed with scattered paddy fields and streaks of teak trees. This together with the fresh water springs produce a cooling effect on the atmosphere of the village, very much in tune with its name.

ROLL OF HONOUR
Late Bishop Julius Alvares; Syrian Orthodox Church

Late Bishop Dom Custodio de Pinho; Roman Catholic Church

Late Fr Savio da Gama; Priest

Late Francis Abranches; Judge

Late J Henriques; Proprietor of Distillery

Late Fr Theodorico Almeida; Priest

Lourdes Menezes da Gama; Retd Joint Secretary Goa Board

Dino da Gama; Advocatecc Francis Jose do Lume Pereira; General Manager, Fomento Mining, Football commentator