Cotigao - The Deep Forest

By Susan Fernandes (Mirror/Herald)
 
 
Travelling gives one tremendous amount of freedom. It’s like being in a new place pours into you a new life. And that’s exactly why, albeit a small group this time, I was dying for that much needed weekend getaway. Believe me, you don’t have to go far to experience it. It’s all here in the precincts of Amchem Goem. And I’m not talking of the surf, sun and the sand - that’s beauty in its own form alright, but the stupendous forest cover and the life within that surrounds Goa.

Cotigao Wild Life Sanctuary, that’s where we were heading for. It is 36 kilometers via Canacona from Panjim and a further 7 kilometers to Poinguinim, just a stone’s throw away from the Karnataka border. I admit, it’s a bit out of the way, but if you are adventurous and a nature freak, I’d say go for it. We set out quite late in the afternoon. Through glimpses of the sun-set, between dense vegetation and meandering roads, we reached our destination at seven in the evening. It was almost dark, but the very
obliging forest guard had waited for us much beyond his call of duty. He showed us to our guest house, which to our amazement was nothing short of the fairy tale’s Hansel and Gretel’s tiny cottage in the woods. (all it needed was real chocolate!). Its cozy interiors were plush with tiles matching the fans et al. For once we were thankful that we were a small group since it could comfortably accommodate only four. The rest would have to do with tents put up just adjacent to the cottage. Also, overlooking the cottage was a quaint looking shack surrounded by a garden, where one could relax or read a book.

It was growing dark and the night was cold, the five of us were already squabbling over who would be sleeping in and who outdoors. Or maybe we could take turns, some said. But first things first, where was the bathroom? Oh! "It is just here", said the forest guard, pointing to to a place some five to six meters from the cottage that looked like another row of cottages. My friend had a look of horror on her face as an afterthought crossed her mind - "what if I have to go ... and during the walk to the bathroom, a pack of wolves .... eeee!" But that’s what I mean by adventure. You have to be able to rough it out. Besides you won’t think it dangerous after I tell you what we did next.

It was 8 pm and we decided to take a walk in the forest! In fact I recommend this to all travelers who visit Cotigao (that is after seeking permission). Armed with only a single torch that belonged to the forest guard (he came along of course) and dainty looking sticks, we hit the road or rather the very uneven pathway deep into the woods. Initially, besides our whispers, all we could hear was the sound of leaves crackling beneath our feet as the crescent moon and stars shone above, giving us just enough light to keep ourselves from knocking against each other.

 
But as we walked deeper into the forest, sounds of birds hooting and chirping grew louder. We stopped on our tracks to listen, while the forest guard very nonchalantly told us that this was the path in the forest where pythons lived and we had better watch our feet. You thought this would have scared us ah! No, it didn’t and we walked another one and a half kilometer, all the while listening to distinct hooting of birds and sometimes some kind of animal seemingly running away after it heard our footsteps. "The Karnataka border is very close, so often a panther or any other animal wanders into our forest for a drink of water and goes back," explained Shiva Naik, the forest guard, who, mind you, right now was our only source of protection against any predator. "No, don’t worry," he reassured us, "If any animal is angry he rubs his horns or claws against the bark of a tree and we can see these signs." In the dark! I thought to myself. But then I had my own theory as to when animals attack. A lot of people may find this debatable, but I for one think that an animal will harm you only if it has been harmed.

But theories aside, we had walked almost three kilometers into the jungle and the torch was already flickering, so we headed back to the cottage, with Shiva Naik telling us more about the birds and beasts seen in the forest. Some of the animals that reside here are Short-Nosed Bat, Indian Wild Boar, Indian Porcupine, Barking Deer, Jungle Cat, Leopard Cat and Striped Hyena.

On reaching the cottage we were in for a surprise. Two more of our friends had travelled all the way from Panjim and decided to join us. They had missed the walk, but being whizzes at wildlife, they insisted that we take a walk into the forest again. We had no complaints, but even more thrilled than us was Shiva Naik who enthusiastically shook his head and said, " I’m ready when you’ll are." So after a tasty meal of fish, curry, rice and vegetables in the spacious canteen close to the cottage, we headed back into the deep forest. It was nearing midnight, the air was getting nippy and we had walked another 4 and a half kilometers. By the time we got back, our feet were killing us and we could do with another meal. Instead there was hot tea, made by the very friendly forest official residing there and cream-cracker biscuits. This was good enough and we settled down in the half-done tent to serenade. We sang to our hearts content until our two dare-devil friends decided to bid us adieus and headed back to Panjim. The rest of us hurdled into the tiny cottage with nobody wanting to risk sleeping outside.

Waking up at this place is just heavenly. The sound of birds humming a tune, while the first rays of the morning sun pranced on the window sill gives one a feeling of being in a wonderland. But we had no time to lie down and stare, there was lots more to experience at the sanctuary. And so after a hot bath of water boiled with neem leaves in a bund (huge copper vessel), a heavy break-fast, we were up and about and set to go trekking in the forest again. This time we headed towards Bhutpal to see the watch tower and the river Talpana. We walked trough thickly forested areas with leafy trees like Terminalia crenulata (State tree of Goa) standing tall, adjoining our pathway, they were interspersed with Bamboo and Cane plantations. In twenty minutes time we were standing in front of the Bela Lake. A group of picnicers had squatted on the banks of this lake and were enjoying themselves in the shade of a tree that seemed to cover the entire area. We looked up to see one of nature’s awesome bounties and what was called the Watch Tower. No, this had nothing to do with time, (in fact time stands still here) but the Machan Tree that stands around 4 storeys tall with a tree house at the top, is used to spot animals anywhere within the vicinity. Our guide told us that even tigers have been sighted in the hill nearby, including various species of birds like the Horn Bill, Green Barbet, Spotted Owlet, Crested Hawk Eagle and the Great Indian Woodpecker. In fact, as we ascended the ladder of the Watch Tower, we could hear a Woodpecker hammering loudly against a hollow bark of a tree. But unfortunately for us, we could neither spot it or any animal around. Apparently, the sanctuary has many streams and rivers that attract animals specially during the summer months. So chances of spotting animals in the winter is a little slim.

We would have liked to visit river Talpana but were running short of time. However, after getting back to the cottage we made it a point to visit the Nature Interpretation Centre located at the entrance of the sanctuary to learn more about the species of animals and birds residing here. The centre houses wildlife exhibits and gives you an idea of wildlife at Cotigao, including a variety of reptiles like the King Cobra, Flying lizard or the Draco, Bamboo Pit Viper and the Common Krait. Though we hadn’t really sighted many, we weren’t disappointed, being here is an experience in itself. And for all those of you who enjoy being in the wild and seeing the wild free, I suggest you call ——- and book your rooms (there is a spacious guest-house coming up too) and explore Cotigao.

As for us, after a hot cup of tea, we headed back to the concrete jungle, all the while, taking in as much as we could of the glimpses of sunset and nature’s beauty, before our journey ended. It’s said, doing what you like is freedom and liking what you do is happiness. We did what we liked and liked what we did. We were a happy lot!